Recommended Turtle Care
Welcome to our Turtle Care Guide
Turtles are long-lived, interactive pets and a serious commitment. Many commonly kept aquatic turtles can live for several decades, so their adult size, lifespan and long-term housing requirements need to be considered before bringing one home.
This guide covers freshwater aquatic and semi-aquatic turtles kept in home aquariums, in general terms. Their requirements vary considerably between species, particularly adult size, water depth, temperature, diet and UVB provision. Always check the requirements of the particular species rather than assuming one setup suits them all.
UK keeper note: Some turtles that were historically common in the pet trade are now subject to legal restrictions. This includes all Trachemys scripta slider terrapins, including red-eared, yellow-bellied and Cumberland sliders. Check the current legal status of the species before buying, selling, breeding or rehoming a turtle.
a) Setting up the Tank
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Turtles need both water for swimming and a dry basking area. They are messy and produce significant waste, so bigger is better for water quality.​
What You’ll Need
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An aquarium or suitable turtle enclosure sized for the species at its adult size
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A secure, well-ventilated cover or barrier where needed
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A powerful appropriately sized filter
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A fully dry basking platform
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A suitable basking heat lamp with appropriate guarding and temperature control
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Species-appropriate UVB lighting
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An aquarium heater with a protective guard where the species requires heated water
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A digital thermometer for the water
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A digital or infrared thermometer for the basking area
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A reliable water test kit
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Water conditioner/dechlorinator
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A siphon and dedicated bucket
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Suitable substrate, hides and enrichment
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Species-appropriate food and calcium/mineral provision
Tank Set-up
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Cycle the tank before arrival (see our Tank Cycling guide).
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Security and Ventilation : The enclosure must prevent escape while remaining well ventilated. Depending on the setup, a secure mesh cover or suitable barrier is preferable to a solid lid that traps excessive humidity.
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Basking area: a stable platform (rock, dock or ramp) they can fully climb onto and dry off on, under appropriate heat and UVB.
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Substrate: bare bottom, suitable fine sand, or smooth stones too large to swallow, depending on the species. Avoid small gravel or loose stones that could be ingested.
Tank Cycling
Prepare and fully cycle your tank before arrival (see our Tank Cycling Guide for the cycling process).
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Stability is everything.
Tank Size
There is no useful single minimum tank volume for all aquatic turtles. Size the enclosure for the adult size and swimming behaviour of the particular species, not the size of the juvenile you bring home. Larger species can require several hundred litres of water as adults, while smaller musk and mud turtles have different space and water-depth requirements.
Provide enough horizontal swimming room for the turtle to move and turn freely, together with an accessible dry basking area. If more than one turtle is kept, substantially more space and additional basking and hiding areas are required.
Check the adult housing requirements of the particular species before buying it.
Tank Type
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Use aquarium tanks, stock tanks, or turtle tubs with secure lids (turtles are excellent climbers/escape artists).
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Water depth:This is species-dependent. The turtle must be able to swim normally, surface easily and right itself safely if overturned. Deep-water swimming species need substantially more depth than some smaller bottom-walking species such as musk turtles. Check the needs of your species rather than using one shell-length rule for all turtles.
Environment
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Basking area: Stable platform (rock, dock, or ramp) under a UVB/heat lamp. Dry area should be easy to climb onto and large enough for the turtle to fully bask.
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Substrate: Suitable fine sand, a bare bottom or smooth stones too large to swallow may be appropriate depending on the species and setup. Avoid small gravel or loose stones that could be swallowed. Keep substrate clean so trapped waste does not degrade water quality.
Filtration
Turtles produce a large amount of solid and dissolved waste, so use a generously sized filter capable of coping with considerably more waste than a similarly sized fish aquarium. External canister filters or sumps are commonly suitable for larger turtle setups.
The filter needs sponges or pads to trap solid waste, together with biological filter media that provides a large surface for the beneficial bacteria processing ammonia and nitrite. Keep the filter running continuously and clean the mechanical media regularly without destroying the established biological media.
Choose the filter for its practical waste-handling capacity rather than relying on flow rate alone.
Lighting and Heating
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UVB lighting: UVB is essential for healthy bone and shell development because it enables turtles to produce vitamin D3 and use calcium properly. There is no single UVB lamp specification suitable for every turtle. The correct provision depends on the species, the lamp type and output, the distance between the lamp and the turtle, and whether mesh or another barrier is between them. Follow appropriate species and lamp-manufacturer guidance, and replace the lamp at the recommended interval because UVB output falls with use even while the lamp still produces visible light.
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Basking temperature: Provide a completely dry basking area beneath a suitable heat source. The correct temperature depends on the species. For slider terrapins, the RSPCA recommends a basking-zone temperature of around 30–35°C. Measure the temperature where the turtle actually basks using a digital thermometer or infrared thermometer. The heated area should be large enough to warm the whole animal, and the turtle must always be able to move away to a cooler area.
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Water temperature: This also depends on the species and age. For slider terrapins, the RSPCA recommends water at about 25°C for hatchlings, gradually reducing to around 22°C for adults. Other aquatic turtle species may require different temperatures, so check the requirements of the particular species. Where an aquarium heater is needed, use one with a protective guard and monitor the water with a separate thermometer.
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Heat and light safety: Guard heat and UV lamps so the turtle cannot touch them, and control heat sources appropriately. Check temperatures regularly rather than relying solely on the thermostat setting.
b) Water Quality
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Good water quality is essential for turtle health and helps reduce the risk of shell, skin and other health problems.
Essentials at a glance
0 mg/L
0 mg/L
Ammonia
Nitrite
Low
Nitrate
Stable
pH
species-specific
Water Temp.
species-specific
Basking
Carry out a partial water change of around 20–25% each week using dechlorinated water. Test regularly and increase the amount or frequency if waste levels begin to rise. Remove uneaten food and obvious solid waste promptly, as turtles can place a very heavy load on the filtration system.
Settling your new turtle in
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Have the enclosure fully prepared, cycled and at the correct temperatures before the turtle is introduced.
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Place the transport container securely at the edge of the basking area or another safe part of the enclosure and allow the turtle to emerge gently. Avoid tipping or dropping it directly into the water.
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Keep disturbance low while it explores. Check that it can easily reach both the water and the dry basking area, and that the enclosure is secure.
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Monitor its behaviour, appetite, water temperature and basking temperature closely over the first few days. Some turtles may be cautious or eat less while adjusting to unfamiliar surroundings.
Many commonly kept freshwater aquatic turtles are omnivores, but diet varies considerably with species and age. Young turtles often eat a greater proportion of animal-based food, while many species become more plant-focused as they mature. Check the diet of your particular species.
c) Feeding
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Foodstuffs
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Staple food: Use a good-quality complete turtle pellet appropriate to the species and size.
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Animal-based foods: Depending on the species, suitable foods can include earthworms, aquatic invertebrates, insects and occasional appropriate whole fish.
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Plant foods: Many species benefit from dark leafy greens and suitable aquatic plants, particularly as adults.
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Variety: Rotate suitable foods rather than relying heavily on one item.
Supplements
Calcium and supplements: Adequate calcium, appropriate UVB exposure and a balanced diet all contribute to healthy bone and shell development. Supplement requirements depend on the species, diet and UVB provision. Do not assume that additional vitamin D3 or calcium powder several times a week is necessary in every setup. Follow appropriate species-specific guidance and avoid excessive supplementation.
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Juveniles: Daily small meals.
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Adults: Every other day or 2–3 times per week. Remove uneaten food promptly so it does not pollute the water.
Feeding Schedule (adjust for age/size):​
d) Decorations, Enrichment and Handling​
Provide a varied environment with open swimming space, securely positioned rocks or wood, hides, plants where suitable, and accessible basking areas. Turtles are inquisitive animals and benefit from opportunities to explore, forage, swim, climb and bask. Make sure anything placed in the enclosure cannot trap or injure the turtle.
Tank Mates
Aquatic turtles are generally safest kept alone. Cohabitation should only be considered in a sufficiently large, carefully designed enclosure where the species and individual animals are suitable. Provide enough separate basking, feeding and hiding areas to reduce competition.
Mixing turtles of different sizes or incompatible species can lead to serious aggression and injury. Turtles may also catch and eat fish or invertebrates. Be prepared to separate animals immediately if there is persistent aggression, competition or injury.
Handling
Minimise unnecessary handling. When handling is required, support the turtle securely without squeezing the shell. Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling the turtle, its water or any equipment. Keep turtle-cleaning equipment away from food-preparation areas and supervise children carefully.
e) Health Monitoring​​​
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Observe daily for normal behaviour:
A turtle in good condition will normally be alert for its species, feed appropriately, have clear eyes and show a firm shell without new soft, damaged or discoloured areas. Normal activity levels vary between species and with temperature.
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Watch for: soft or discoloured shell spots, swollen or closed eyes, laboured breathing, lethargy, loss of appetite.
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If your turtle looks unwell: test the water, correct any husbandry issues (temperature, UVB, water quality), and consult an exotic vet experienced with reptiles.
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Shell and respiratory problems in particular need proper veterinary diagnosis, not home treatment.
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Prevention: correct UVB and temperature, good water quality, a balanced diet, and quarantine of new turtles.
​​​Top Tips:
Quarantine new turtles, maintain pristine conditions, and consult an exotic vet experienced with reptiles for any concerns.
Replace UVB lamps according to the manufacturer’s specified interval and check that the lamp remains correctly positioned.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
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Choosing an enclosure for the turtle’s current juvenile size rather than its adult size
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Using one generic tank size, temperature or water depth for every turtle species
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Providing inadequate UVB or continuing to use a lamp beyond its effective service life
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Providing a basking area that is too cool, too small or does not allow the turtle to become fully dry
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Using unguarded heaters or heat lamps that the turtle can contact or damage
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Allowing ammonia or nitrite to accumulate because filtration and water changes cannot keep up with the turtle’s waste
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Overfeeding
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Using calcium or vitamin supplements indiscriminately rather than as part of a properly planned diet and UVB setup
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Keeping incompatible turtles together or failing to provide enough separate resources
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Using small gravel or loose stones that could be swallowed