Channa (Snakehead) and Arowana Care
A step by step guide
Important points to note if you are relatively new to fishkeeping
These are not beginner fish. Channa (snakeheads) are predatory, air-breathing ambush hunters with real personality. Arowana are majestic large, surface-oriented predators — the “dragon fish” — that can grow to 2–3 ft or more and need very large horizontal space. Both need experience, space and commitment.
Some Channa species remain relatively small, while others become very large. Their space, temperature and husbandry requirements vary considerably by species, so always check the individual fish description before buying. We include important details like size and care requirements for every fish we sell. You'll find a detailed description when you click on the fish.
Lifespan and commitment: Arowana commonly live around 10–20+ years with good care. Channa lifespan varies considerably by species and reliable published figures are more limited, but they should be treated as long-term commitments; some species are documented living around 10–15 years. Always check the requirements of the particular species before buying.
Betta, Channa or Arowana? A Quick Comparison
This is a quick overview only. Always check the individual species guide before buying, especially for Channa and Arowana, where adult size and housing needs vary greatly.
1.
Setting up your tank for Channa
(Preparatory Work - Do This BEFORE Buying or Receiving Your Fish )
Species-dependent.
Some smaller Channa, such as C. bleheri, remain around 15 cm, while the largest species can exceed 1 metre. There is no useful single tank-volume rule for the genus. Choose the aquarium to suit the adult size and behaviour of the species, with a generous horizontal footprint. Check the individual fish description before buying.
Tank Size
Substrate & Decor
Dense floating plants, driftwood, caves, sand substrate. Dim lighting preferred.
Lid (Essential!)
Tight-fitting and secure. Channa are powerful jumpers and need access to air above their water. Leave a small air space between the water surface and the lid, while making sure there are no escape gaps.
Filtration
Use a generously sized filter with plenty of biological media. Aim for around 4–6× the aquarium volume per hour as a practical starting point. Channa are messy feeders and can produce a substantial waste load, so an external canister or sump is often a good choice for larger setups. Avoid creating an excessively strong current, and diffuse the outlet if necessary.
Ideal Temperature
Species-dependent.
Channa includes both tropical and subtropical species. Some benefit from a genuine seasonal cool period, while others require warmer conditions year-round. Check the requirements for the particular species and always monitor the water temperature with a thermometer.
pH Balance
Species-dependent. Requirements vary between Channa species. Check the individual fish description and aim for stable water conditions rather than adjusting pH simply to reach a generic target number.
Required for Both Channa and Arowana
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Heater
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Thermometer
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Reliable liquid test kit
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Dechlorinator,
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Substrate vacuum.
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Strong biological filtration and regular partial water changes. As a practical starting point, around 25–30% weekly is suitable for many setups, with larger or more frequent changes where testing and waste load show they are needed.
The aquarium must be fully cycled before the fish arrives. -
Cycle fully complete before arrival.
Setting up your tank for Arowana
(Preparatory Work - Do This BEFORE Buying or Receiving Your Fish )
Both Channa and Arowana require fully cycled, mature systems. Do not rush.
For most adult arowana, plan for a very large aquarium of roughly 750–1,000 litres or more, with a long, wide footprint. Silver arowana can reach around 90 cm and may require substantially more space. Length and width are more important than height because the fish must be able to swim and turn comfortably. Always check the adult size of the species before buying.
Tank Size
pH Balance
A practical range for many commonly kept arowana is around pH 6.0–7.5, but requirements vary by species. Some, particularly blackwater species, prefer softer, more acidic conditions. Stability is more important than chasing an exact number. Check the individual fish description.
Lid (Essential!)
Secure, tight-fitting and strong enough to withstand a powerful jump. Arowana are exceptional jumpers and can seriously injure themselves if they escape or strike an insecure cover. Make sure there are no gaps around cables, pipework or filter fittings.
Substrate & Decor
Keep plenty of open swimming space, especially in the upper part of the aquarium. Décor should be smooth, secure and positioned so the fish can turn freely without striking it. Plants and driftwood can be used for cover and enrichment, but avoid overcrowding the tank or obstructing the surface.
Ideal Temperature
For most commonly kept arowana, aim for around 24–30°C (75–86°F). Keep the temperature stable and check the individual species requirements.
Filtration
Use powerful mechanical and biological filtration. Aim for around 6–10× the aquarium volume per hour as a practical starting point. A large sump is often an excellent choice for bigger systems, while substantial external canister filtration can also work. Maintain good circulation and oxygenation without creating excessive turbulence at the surface.
Water Quality & Maintenance
Stable, clean water is essential for both Channa and Arowana.
Larger specimens and heavily fed predatory fish can produce a substantial waste load, so strong filtration, regular testing and water changes are particularly important.
2.
Feeding
Channa:
Adults usually do well with 2–4 appropriately sized meals per week; juveniles need smaller meals more often. Offer a varied carnivorous diet such as prawn, mussel, earthworms, insects, suitable fish flesh and good-quality carnivore pellets where accepted. Avoid overfeeding.
​Avoid overfeeding; remove uneaten food.
Arowana:
Juveniles need small meals more frequently, while larger adults can usually be fed once daily or every other day depending on size and condition. Use a varied carnivorous diet based around a good-quality complete arowana or carnivore pellet/stick, supplemented with foods such as prawns, earthworms, insects and occasional mussel or fish. Avoid overfeeding.
Avoid using live feeder fish as a routine food. They can introduce parasites or disease, and some commonly used feeder species, including goldfish and fathead minnows, contain thiaminase. A diet heavily dependent on thiaminase-containing prey can contribute to vitamin B1 deficiency.
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Avoid mammalian and poultry meat such as beef heart or chicken as a regular food. These are not natural staple foods for Channa or arowana, and their fat profile is poorly suited to most fish. Use aquatic prey, invertebrates and a good-quality complete carnivore food instead.
3.
Tank Acclimatisation & Essential Care Following Postal Delivery
Critical First 24 -72 Hours
Postal transit can be demanding for these fish, particularly larger specimens. Have the aquarium fully cycled, established and tested... Keep the lid secure throughout; these are serious jumpers!
1.
Arrival
Tank ready — fully cycled and tested, stable at the right temperature for your species, lights low, quiet room, lid secure.
3.
Transfer
Transfer gently. The safest method depends on the fish:
Channa: use a suitable soft net or a water-filled container sized to the fish.
Arowana: use a large water-filled fish bag or smooth-sided container wherever practical. Avoid chasing or lifting a sizeable arowana in a small conventional net, as this can damage scales and skin or provoke violent thrashing. Keep the aquarium fully covered before opening the transport bag.
In both cases, discard the transport water — never pour it into the aquarium.
2.
Temperature Acclimation
Inspect and temperature-match: keep the sealed bag dim and upright while you check the fish. If the bag and aquarium differ noticeably in temperature, float the sealed bag for around 10–15 minutes. Skip this if they are already close.
4.
First 24–48 Hours:
Keep the lights off or very low and the room quiet. If the fish is particularly unsettled, covering one or more sides of the aquarium can reduce visual disturbance. Maintain normal filtration and good oxygenation without excessive surface turbulence. Once the fish is settled and swimming normally, offer a small meal, usually later that day or the following day. If it refuses, remove uneaten food and try again the next day. Watch for repeated jumping, clamped fins, loss of balance or laboured breathing.
5.
First Week:
Keep a close eye on water quality during the first week. If ammonia or nitrite is detected, carry out a partial water change with dechlorinated, temperature-matched water and investigate the cause.
(Why prompt transfer rather than a long drip? See the science box — prolonging exposure to opened transport water can raise ammonia toxicity for a fish.)
4.
Tank Mates, Enrichment and Health Checks
Tank Mates - Channa:
Compatibility is highly species-dependent. Many are safest kept alone or as an established pair. Groups of juveniles may coexist, but aggression often increases as they mature and pairs form, so be prepared to separate fish quickly. Any other tank mates must be too large to be eaten and suitable for the particular Channa species.
Tank Mates - Arowana:
Arowana are usually safest kept alone. In very large aquaria, suitable tank mates may include large, robust bottom-dwelling fish such as some plecos or catfish, provided they are too large to be eaten and have compatible water requirements. Avoid small fish and anything likely to compete aggressively at the surface.
Enrichment
Channa: provide cover and structure appropriate to the species, such as floating plants, shaded areas, caves or wood, while leaving clear swimming space.
Arowana: prioritise a long, open upper-water swimming area and unobstructed surface. Keep décor secure and avoid anything that restricts turning or creates an injury risk.
For both: a varied feeding routine and occasional target feeding can provide useful stimulation and encourage natural foraging behaviour.
Health
Both Channa and Arowana.
Watch for changes in behaviour, appetite, breathing, colour or swimming, as well as fin or scale damage, white spots, sores, swelling or other new marks on the body.
If your fish looks unwell, test the water first and check temperature, filtration and the aquarium setup. If the readings are appropriate but the fish is still unwell, contact us and we can help you review the husbandry. If illness or injury is suspected, seek advice from a veterinary surgeon with appropriate aquatic experience rather than guessing at medication.
Quarantine new fish before introducing them to an established aquarium where practical.​
5.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
(Especially vs Betta Keeping)
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Housing either fish in inadequate space — this restricts normal movement, makes water quality harder to maintain, and can worsen stress and aggression.
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Rapid temperature or pH swings
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Poor water quality or inadequate oxygenation, particularly for arowana. Channa can breathe atmospheric air, but still need clean water, effective filtration and unobstructed access to the surface. Avoid excessively strong current, particularly with Channa.
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Do not combine Channa and arowana simply because they are both large predatory fish. Their behaviour, adult size and space requirements can make the combination unsafe, and it should only be attempted by experienced keepers in a suitably large setup after checking the particular species involved.
Preparation is Everything!
Prepare a properly sized, fully cycled aquarium and settle your fish in calmly, and you’ll give your Channa or arowana the best possible chance of a long, healthy life. These are demanding fish, but with the right preparation they can be exceptionally rewarding to keep.
If you'd like advice on your specific setup, get in touch. WhatsApp is quickest, and Kieran is always happy to help.
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Happy fishkeeping !