Channa (Snakehead) and Arowana Care
A step by step guide
Betta, Channa and Arowana share some fascinating similarities — all are carnivorous, intelligent, and possess adaptations for breathing air at the surface — but their care needs differ dramatically because of size, aggression, space requirements and lifestyle.
Channa and Arowana are true “monster fish” that demand massive, long-term investment in space, filtration and high-protein feeding. Never treat them like oversized Bettas — their predatory nature and growth potential make small-tank keeping unethical and short-lived. There are dwarf varieties which take up less space, but still need far, far more than Bettas.
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Important points to note for novice fish-keepers
​Bettas thrive in compact, planted setups with gentle care and are infinitely more suitable if space and fish-keeping experience is limited.
Snakeheads are predatory, air-breathing ambush hunters with personality ++ !
Arowana are majestic, surface-oriented predators — “Dragon Fish”.
Species Notes: Asian (most prized, regulated), Silver, Black, etc. They grow large (2–3+ ft) and need massive horizontal space. Not for beginners or average home aquariums.
Key Differences Between Betta, Channa and Arowana – At a Glance Guide
1.
Setting up your tank for Channa
(Preparatory Work - Do This BEFORE Buying or Receiving Your Fish )
Both Channa and Arowana require fully cycled, mature systems prepared 4–8 weeks in advance. Do not rush.
Species-dependent — dwarf (e.g. C. bleheri)
75–100 gallons minimum; medium/large species
200+ gallons or ponds.
Long footprint essential.
Tank Size
Substrate & Decor
Dense floating plants, driftwood, caves, sand substrate. Dim lighting preferred.
Lid (Essential!)
Tight fitting and heavy. They are good jumpers!
Filtration
Oversized canister or sump (4–6× tank volume turnover). They produce heavy waste but tolerate slightly lower oxygen than Arowana.
Ideal Temperature
72°F to 82°F (22°C – 28°C).
some subtropical species benefit from a seasonal cool period (down to 68 °F). Always monitor with a thermometer.
pH Balance
pH: 6.0–7.5
(stable, slightly acidic to neutral).
Required for Both Channa and Arowana
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Heater, thermometer, API Master Test Kit.
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Dechlorinator, high-quality substrate vacuum.
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Strong biological filtration and regular large water changes (30–50 % weekly once established).
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Cycling: Fishless cycle to zero ammonia/nitrite for 2–3 weeks minimum.
Setting up your tank for Arowana
(Preparatory Work - Do This BEFORE Buying or Receiving Your Fish )
Both Channa and Arowana require fully cycled, mature systems prepared 4–8 weeks in advance. Do not rush.
150–250+ gallons
minimum for one adult; length and width far more important than height.
Tank Size
pH Balance
pH: 6.0–7.0 (stable).
Lid (Essential!)
Secure — notorious jumpers that can injure themselves.
Substrate & Decor
Open swimming space at the top; minimal décor to reduce injury risk. Floating plants or Indian almond leaves for tannins.
Ideal Temperature
72°F to 82°F (22°C – 28°C).
some species prefer
75°F to 86°F)
Filtration
Very powerful ( 6–10× turnover) with excellent surface agitation.
Required for Both Channa and Arowana
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Heater, thermometer, API Master Test Kit.
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Dechlorinator, high-quality substrate vacuum.
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Strong biological filtration and regular large water changes (30–50 % weekly once established).
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Cycling: Fishless cycle to zero ammonia/nitrite for 2–3 weeks minimum.
Water Quality & Maintenance
Stability is even more critical for Channa and Arowana than for Bettas because of their massive bio-load.
7.0
Neutral
(6.5-7.5)
0
Ammonia & Nitrite
<20
22 -28
o
C
Temperature
Nitrate
Below 10 ppm best
2.
Feeding
Channa:
2–4 large meals per week (frozen shrimp, chopped fish, mussels, high-protein pellets) - what they eat in 5 minutes.
Arowana:
3–5 meals per week of floating pellets, crickets, mealworms, shrimp. Surface feeding encourages their natural behaviour.
3.
Tank Acclimatisation & Essential Care Following Postal Delivery
Critical First 24 -72 Hours
Postal transit is extremely stressful for these large fish. Have your cycled tank running and tested for at least 48 hours before arrival.
1.
Arrival
Place the unopened shipping bag in a quiet, dimly lit room for 15–20 minutes to let the fish settle.
2.
Temperature Acclimation
Float the sealed bag in your tank for 15–20 minutes to equalise the temperature.
3.
Drip acclimation
(45–90+ minutes):
Use airline tubing to drip tank water into the shipping bag at 1–2 drops per second. Periodically remove 50–70 % of old water. This is more critical than for Bettas because of their size and sensitivity to pH/osmotic shock.
5.
First 24–48 Hours:
Lights off, sides covered, gentle surface agitation. Do not feed for 24–48 hours. Monitor for jumping, clamped fins or heavy surface breathing.
4.
Transfer
Set up the main or quarantine tank by adding Indian almond leaves or catappa extract and a small amount of aquarium salt (1–2 tsp per 5 gallons) for osmotic support.
I find it best to take some of the tank water and dissolve a small amount of the salt, then add it back to the tank and allow the pump to push it around for half an hour or so, then re-test the concentration.​
You are aiming to keep total dissolved solids (tds) below 450 ppm at all times.
When stable, gently net the Channa or Arowana (never pour) into your prepared tank..
6.
Post-arrival water change:
25–30 % on day 3
if parameters shift.
Test daily for the first week.
Channa are generally hardier air-breathers than Arowana during shipping, but both need slower acclimation than a Betta.
4.
Tank Mates, Enrichment and Health Checks
Tank Mates
Channa:
Usually solitary or very carefully matched same-size groups. Avoid small fish — they are prey.
Tank Mates
Arowana:
Best alone or with very large, fast-moving tankmates (e.g. large catfish, plecos) only in massive tanks.
Enrichment
Both Channa and Arowana.
Floating plants, varied diet, occasional target feeding. All three are intelligent — provide mental stimulation to reduce aggression. Occasional target feeding.
Health
Both Channa and Arowana.
Watch for fin damage, white spots, white stringy faeces, lethargy or colour loss. Quarantine new fish 4–6 weeks. Early water testing prevents 90 % of problems.
5.
Common Pitfalls to Avoid
(Especially vs Betta Keeping)
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Never house Channa or Arowana in anything under the minimum sizes listed — this is the #1 cause of stunted growth and aggression.
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Avoid rapid temperature or pH swings (more dangerous than for Bettas).
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Strong currents stress all three, but Arowana and Channa need better oxygenation than Bettas.
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Do not mix species casually — Channa and Arowana are incompatible in most home setups.
Preparation is Everything!
By preparing a properly sized, cycled tank and following careful acclimatisation after postal delivery, you’ll give your Channa or Arowana the stable environment they need to display their full predatory beauty and personality — qualities that set them apart from the smaller, more accessible Betta.
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Happy fishkeeping — and remember: big fish need big commitment!