Recommended Inverts Care
Invertebrate Care Guide – Shrimp, Snails & Crayfish
Shrimp, snails and dwarf crayfish can be fascinating additions to a freshwater aquarium. Shrimp and many snails spend much of their time grazing on biofilm, algae and other surface growth, while dwarf crayfish are more broadly omnivorous scavengers. All add movement and character. Some can help keep a tank tidy, but none replaces regular maintenance. A healthy invertebrate aquarium still needs testing and water changes.
This guide covers three different groups: dwarf shrimp, aquarium snails and dwarf crayfish. Their water chemistry, feeding, compatibility and arrival needs differ, so follow the advice for your animal rather than applying one set of conditions to all three.
Lifespan and commitment: Freshwater shrimp and many aquarium snails commonly live for a couple of years with good care. Dwarf crayfish lifespan varies by species, with many of the smaller species living for around 1–3 years. Always check the particular species before buying.
a) Setting up the Tank
Prepare and fully cycle the aquarium before your invertebrates arrive. Shrimp and many snails particularly benefit from an established aquarium with mature surfaces where biofilm and algae can develop. Dwarf crayfish need plenty of floor space, cover and secure hiding places. Whatever you keep, stable water chemistry is more important than repeatedly adjusting the water to chase a particular number.
What You’ll Need
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An appropriately sized, fully cycled aquarium
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A secure lid or cover, particularly for crayfish and climbing snails
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A suitable established filter
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A thermometer
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A reliable liquid test kit for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH
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GH and KH tests where you keep shrimp or other mineral-sensitive invertebrates
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Water conditioner/dechlorinator
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A siphon and dedicated bucket
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Plants, wood, caves or other suitable hiding places for the species
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Suitable food
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A heater where the species and room temperature require one
Tank Cycling
Prepare and fully cycle your tank before arrival (see our Tank Cycling Guide for the cycling process).
Stability is everything.
Tank Size
Cherry shrimp: 19 litres minimum. Around 38 litres or more provides a more stable environment and more grazing area for a growing colony.
Snails: Tank size depends on the species, number of snails and the amount of established grazing available. A single nerite can suit an established aquarium of around 20 litres or more, but larger numbers require more grazing area as well as more water volume.
Dwarf crayfish: Requirements vary considerably by species, and floor area matters as much as litres. Do not rely on one “litres per crayfish” rule. Provide generous floor space, several separate shelters and enough room for each animal to retreat during moulting. Check the individual species information before buying.
Filtration
Use established filtration that provides good biological filtration and gentle to moderate circulation appropriate to the species. An air-driven sponge filter is an excellent choice for a shrimp aquarium, particularly a breeding colony, because the sponge provides grazing surface and prevents shrimplets being drawn into the filter. If you use an internal or external filter with shrimp, fit a fine pre-filter sponge over the intake. Maintain good surface movement and oxygenation without creating excessive current.
Environment
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Substrate: Fine sand or smooth inert gravel works well for many species. Shrimp and snails can also be kept in specialist setups without substrate, but an established planted aquarium provides far more grazing surface. Dwarf crayfish benefit from a suitable fine substrate and plenty of structure.
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Plants, wood and hides: Mosses, live plants, aquarium-safe wood, leaf litter and caves provide grazing surfaces and shelter. Crayfish need several secure hides, particularly during moulting, and may dig around or damage softer plants.
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Leaf litter: Use correctly identified, aquarium-safe, pesticide-free leaves. Add botanicals gradually so you can monitor their effect on the aquarium.
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Lid: Keep the aquarium securely covered where necessary. Crayfish are capable climbers and some aquarium snails will also leave the water.
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Lighting: Low to moderate lighting is suitable for many planted invert aquariums. Adjust the lighting period to suit the plants and control excessive algae rather than treating 8–12 hours as a fixed biological requirement.
b) Water Quality
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Important Notes
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Copper
Do not use copper-based medications or treatments unless they are specifically confirmed safe for every invertebrate species present. Copper is an essential trace element, so the aim is not to eliminate every trace of it. Elevated dissolved copper, however, can be highly toxic to aquatic invertebrates. -
Water changes
Carry out regular partial water changes, normally around 20–25% each week, using dechlorinated water at a similar temperature. Shrimp are particularly sensitive to sudden changes in water chemistry, so avoid unnecessarily large or abrupt changes. If water quality begins to deteriorate between routine changes, increase the frequency or amount gradually while checking the cause. -
Minerals and supplementation
Test before supplementing. Shrimp, snails and crayfish need appropriate minerals for their shells or exoskeletons, but do not add calcium, crushed coral or mineral supplements routinely. Check GH, KH and the requirements of the species first. If the water is unsuitable, make any correction gradually rather than repeatedly dosing an already suitable aquarium.
Water Parameters by Group
Cherry shrimp (Neocaridina)
Temperature: around 18–26°C
pH: around 6.8–7.8
GH: around 6–12 dGH
KH: around 2–8 dKH
Stability matters more than chasing an exact number.
Nerite snails
Prefer neutral to alkaline, moderately hard water. Aim for roughly pH 7.0–8.5 and avoid persistently soft, acidic water, which can damage the shell. Check the individual snail species before buying.
Dwarf crayfish
Requirements vary by species. Many commonly kept dwarf crayfish prefer neutral to alkaline, moderately hard water, but use the individual species information rather than the shrimp figures above.
For all groups:
ammonia 0 mg/L; nitrite 0 mg/L; keep nitrate low. As a practical UK benchmark, aim to keep nitrate no more than around 20 mg/L above the normal level in your source water.
Feeding
Inverts are natural scavengers but benefit from targeted feeding in well-maintained tanks.​​​
Shrimp
Shrimp spend much of the day grazing on biofilm, algae and decaying organic material. Supplement this with a good-quality shrimp food, algae-based foods and small amounts of suitable blanched vegetables. In an established aquarium, two or three supplementary feeds per week may be enough, depending on colony size and the amount of natural food available.
Snails
Diet depends on the species. Nerite snails are specialist grazers and need an aquarium with enough established algae and biofilm; do not assume that every nerite will readily substitute prepared food for natural grazing. Other snails may take algae wafers, vegetables or more specialised foods. Check the species.
Dwarf Crayfish:
These are omnivorous scavengers. Offer a good-quality sinking crustacean food together with vegetable matter and occasional suitable animal-based foods. Feed modest amounts and remove uneaten food.
Pro Tip:
Excess food decomposes and damages water quality. Poor water quality can in turn contribute to health and moulting problems.
Settling in after delivery
Your tank must be cycled and stable before arrival. The settling in method depends on the animal:​​​
Shrimp are sensitive to sudden changes in dissolved minerals, so they’re acclimatised slowly.
1. Float the sealed bag ~15 min to match temperature.
2. Open into a clean container and drip tank water in slowly (~1–2 drops/sec) over 60–90 minutes, until the volume has roughly doubled or tripled. Keep it at a stable temperature and don’t leave it unattended.
3. Net the shrimp across into the tank; discard the container water, never pour it in.
Shrimp gradual (drip) acclimatisation
Safeguard: if the transport water smells foul, is badly discoloured, contains a dead animal, or the shrimp are in obvious distress, don’t prolong the drip. Move the survivors into clean, suitable water and contact us.
This is Broadheath Bettas’ practical house method. Direct controlled research comparing exact acclimatisation times after courier transport is limited, so treat 60–90 minutes as a cautious working method rather than a scientifically proven universal optimum.
Dwarf Crayfish: gradual (drip) acclimatisation
As crustaceans, crayfish are also mineral-sensitive.
1. Float ~15 min to match temperature.
2. Drip into a clean container over 30–60 minutes, until the volume doubles.
3. Move across gently (many keepers let a crayfish walk out of a tipped container to protect claws and antennae); discard the container water. If the transport water is badly discoloured or foul-smelling, contains a dead animal, or the crayfish is obviously distressed, do not prolong the acclimatisation simply to reach a set time. Move it into clean, suitable water and contact us.
Snails: brief match, then gentle transfer
Snails generally do not need the same prolonged drip acclimatisation used for shrimp. Briefly match the temperature, then transfer them gently. 1. Float ~15 min to match temperature. 2. Transfer gently; don’t forcibly pull a snail from the bag if its foot is attached. Submerge the opened bag/container and let it release naturally. Discard the transport water. 3. A new snail may stay shut in its shell for a while before emerging, that’s normal.
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Decorations, Enrichment and Tank Mates​
Provide plenty of cover and hiding places, especially for moulting shrimp and crayfish, when the new exoskeleton is still soft. Mosses, plants, wood, leaf litter and appropriately sized caves can all provide useful shelter and grazing surfaces.
Any fish kept with shrimp or small snails must be chosen carefully. Fish that can fit a shrimp or shrimplet into their mouth may eat it, even if the fish is otherwise described as peaceful.
Bettas are a case-by-case call. A betta and shrimp can sometimes share a heavily planted tank with plenty of dense cover, but it isn't reliable; some bettas will hunt shrimp. Whether it works comes down to the individual betta and the setup, so don't treat it as a safe default.
Dwarf crayfish are usually best kept on their own, or in a carefully planned species-only setup. They can be nippy and may catch shrimp, snails or slow-moving fish, and compatibility varies from one species - and one individual - to the next.
As a general rule for any invert tank, steer clear of large or aggressive fish.
Breeding
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Cherry Shrimp: breed readily in good conditions. Females carry eggs under their tail (berried). Shrimplets need biofilm and fine food to survive.
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Nerite Snails: Nerite snails may lay eggs in freshwater, but their larvae normally require brackish or marine conditions to develop successfully, so they do not usually establish self-sustaining populations in an ordinary freshwater aquarium.
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Dwarf Crayfish: Females carry eggs beneath the abdomen. If juveniles are being raised, provide plenty of separate hiding places.
Health Monitoring​​​
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Watch for changes from normal: prolonged inactivity, loss of appetite, repeated or incomplete moults, unusual colour changes, visible damage, shell erosion or pitting in snails, unexpected loss of limbs, or abnormal swelling.
Moulting problems: An unsuccessful moult can have several possible causes, including unsuitable mineral balance, unstable water chemistry, nutrition, temperature, age or illness. Test the water and review the overall conditions rather than assuming that one supplement will fix the problem.
Snail shell damage: Persistent shell thinning, pitting or erosion can indicate unsuitable water chemistry, particularly water that is too soft or acidic for the species. Check pH and hardness rather than simply adding calcium.
If an animal appears unwell: Test the water first. We can help you review the aquarium setup, water chemistry and husbandry. Do not use a medication unless it is explicitly safe for every invertebrate species present. Where illness or injury requires diagnosis or treatment, seek appropriate professional advice.
Prevention: Keep the aquarium cycled and stable, avoid sudden parameter changes, and quarantine new stock where practical.
​Top Mistakes to Avoid:
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Adding shrimp or snails to a newly cycled aquarium with little established biofilm or grazing
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Adding any invertebrate to an uncycled aquarium
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Assuming shrimp, snails and crayfish all need the same water parameters
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Using the same acclimatisation method for every type of invertebrate
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Making large, sudden changes to temperature, pH or hardness
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Adding calcium or mineral supplements without first testing the water
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Using medications that have not been confirmed safe for the invertebrates present
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Overfeeding
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Stripping the aquarium too clean and removing all established biofilm
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Failing to provide enough hiding places for moulting animals
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Choosing tank mates on the basis that they are merely described as “peaceful”