
Recommended Inverts Care

Invertebrate Care Guide – Shrimp, Snails & Crayfish
Invertebrates such as Cherry Shrimp, Nerite Snails, and Dwarf Crayfish are wonderful additions to planted aquariums. They act as natural cleaners, constantly grazing on biofilm and algae while adding fascinating movement and personality. Many can coexist peacefully with Bettas and other fish (with good hiding spots and careful observation), making them excellent companions in community or species-specific setups.

a) Setting up the Tank
Invertebrates do best in mature, heavily planted tanks with stable water parameters and plenty of surface area for grazing.
Tank Size
Dwarf Crayfish:
38-75 Litres (10–20 gallons) per individual.
Cherry Shrimp and Snails
19 litres (5 gallons)
Minimum
38 litres (10 gallons)
for a thriving colony.
Environment
-
Substrate: Fine sand, inert gravel, or bare bottom for shrimp/snails. Dwarf crayfish appreciate sand or fine gravel for digging.
-
Hardscape & Plants: Lots of live plants (especially moss like Java Moss or Christmas Moss), driftwood, leaf litter (Indian almond, oak, mulberry), and caves/hides. These provide food, shelter, and molting protection.
-
Lighting: Low to moderate with an 8–12 hour day/night cycle to encourage algae and biofilm growth without excessive algae blooms.
Tank Cycling
Prepare and fully cycle your tank before arrival (see our Tank Cycling Guide for the cycling process).
Stability is everything.
Filtration
​Gentle flow only. Sponge filters are highly recommended — they provide excellent biofilm growth and oxygenation without sucking up baby shrimp (shrimplets).

b) Water Quality
​
Important Notes
-
Invertebrates — especially shrimp — are sensitive to fluctuations in water parameters and copper.
-
Avoid copper-based medications entirely (highly toxic to shrimp and snails).
-
Perform regular small water changes (10–20% weekly) with dechlorinated, temperature-matched water.
-
Shrimp benefit from added calcium sources (cut cuttlebone, crushed coral, or shrimp-specific mineral supplements) during heavy breeding/molting periods.


6.8-7.8
0

21-26
o
C
<20
7.0-7.5 OK
Ammonia & Nitrite
Temp.
Nitrate
70-78
F
o
Below 10 ppm best

6-14
GH
dGH


2-8
150-400 ppm
KH
dKH
TDS
Total Dissolved Solids
Ideal parameters for most tropical inverts (Cherry Shrimp, Nerite Snails, Dwarf Crayfish):

Feeding
Inverts are natural scavengers but benefit from targeted feeding in well-maintained tanks.​​​
Shrimp & Snails:
Primarily graze on biofilm, algae, and decaying plant matter. Supplement 2–3 times per week with:
-
Blanched vegetables (zucchini, cucumber, spinach, carrot — remove after a few hours)
-
Algae wafers, sinking shrimp pellets, or bacter AE-style biofilm boosters
-
Indian almond leaves or leaf litter
Pro Tip:
Overfeeding is one of the most common mistakes — it pollutes the water and can cause molting issues in shrimp. Let them graze naturally as much as possible.
Dwarf Crayfish:
More omnivorous/predatory. Offer sinking pellets, vegetables, worms, and occasional small protein. Feed every other day and remove uneaten food quickly.
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Decorations, Enritchment and Tank Mates​
Provide abundant hiding spots, especially during molting (when inverts are vulnerable). Leaf litter and moss are excellent for this.
-
Excellent with peaceful fish, Bettas (if the Betta is not overly aggressive), and other inverts.
-
Avoid with large/aggressive fish, Goldfish, or most Cichlids.
-
Dwarf Crayfish are best kept alone or in species-only tanks — they can be nippy and may eat small shrimp or slow fish.

Breeding
-
Cherry Shrimp breed readily in good conditions. Females carry eggs under their tail (berried). Shrimplets need biofilm and fine food to survive.
-
Nerite Snails usually do not breed successfully in freshwater (they need brackish conditions for larvae).
-
Dwarf Crayfish lay eggs that the female carries — provide extra hides for juveniles.
Health Monitoring​​​
​​
Observe daily for normal behaviour:
Watch for active movement, healthy molting, and good appetite.
​
Warning signs:
-
Failed moults (shrimp stuck in old shell) — usually due to low GH or unstable parameters
-
Lethargy or hiding constantly
-
White rings or discoloration
​Top Mistakes to Avoid:
-
Adding inverts to an uncycled or brand-new tank
-
Rapid temperature or parameter swings during acclimatisation (use drip acclimation)
-
Using copper medications
-
Over-cleaning the tank (removes essential biofilm)
-
Overfeeding or poor water quality
​
Acclimatisation Tip:
Float the bag for temperature equalisation, then drip acclimate slowly over 45–90 minutes. This is especially important for shrimp.
These hardy inverts reward patient keepers with thriving colonies and cleaner tanks. Many experienced aquarists now focus heavily on biofilm support and mineral balance for long-term success.

