Recommended Axolotl Care
Welcome to our Axolotl Guide
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Axolotls (Ambystoma mexicanum) are fully aquatic salamanders native to the high-altitude freshwater lakes of Mexico. Unlike most salamanders, they retain their aquatic larval features throughout life, including their distinctive feathery external gills.
They breathe mainly through their gills and, to a lesser extent, through their skin and lungs. With good care they can live 10–15+ years, so they are a long-term commitment. Their care is quite specialised, particularly when it comes to temperature and water quality, so prepare thoroughly before bringing one home.
a) Setting up the Tank
What You'll Need
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A long, low aquarium of at least 75 litres for one adult, with more space strongly preferred
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A gentle, appropriately sized filter
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A reliable digital thermometer
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A liquid test kit for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH
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GH and KH tests, particularly if you do not know your tap-water hardness
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Water conditioner/dechlorinator
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A siphon and dedicated bucket
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Fine aquarium sand, a suitable bare bottom or large flat tile
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Several smooth hides
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Low-level lighting if lighting is used
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Suitable axolotl food
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A practical cooling plan, such as aquarium fans or a chiller where necessary
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A clean, water-safe container for safe transfer or temporary tubbing
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No heater.
Tank Size
75 litres (20 gallons) Minimum
150 litres (40 gallons) or larger is strongly recommended.
If more than one axolotl is kept, provide substantially more floor space, additional hides and enough room for each animal to feed and rest separately. Only house similarly sized axolotls together and be prepared to separate them if nipping, competition or injury occurs.
Environment
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Substrate: A bare bottom, large flat tile or fine aquarium sand can be used. Never use gravel or small pebbles that the axolotl could swallow. Accidental ingestion can cause intestinal impaction that may be life-threatening or fatal.
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Hides and décor: Provide several smooth hides such as caves, suitable pipes or smooth rock. Low-light live plants can provide additional cover if they tolerate the cool, dim conditions, although axolotls may dislodge them. Check all décor and artificial plants carefully for rough or sharp edges that could damage the skin or external gills.
Tank Type
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​Choose long, low tanks (e.g., 36" x 18" footprint) over tall ones. They spend a lot of time at the bottom.
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No heater required. Axolotls are cold-water animals.
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Filtration: Use a filter capable of handling the axolotl's waste while keeping the current gentle. Sponge filters can work well, as can internal or external filters where the outlet is baffled or spread with a spray bar. The filter should provide enough biological filtration to keep ammonia and nitrite at zero without pushing the axolotl around the aquarium. Strong water flow can cause significant stress.
Tank Cycling
Prepare and fully cycle the aquarium before introducing your axolotl. See our Tank Cycling Guide. Confirm that the biological filter is ready by testing rather than simply counting the number of days the aquarium has been running.
b) Water Temperature – The Most Critical Factor
Aim to keep the aquarium consistently around 16–18°C. Temperatures approaching the low 20s should prompt you to check and improve your cooling. Water around 24°C or above presents a serious welfare and health risk.
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Cooling Tips
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Keep the aquarium in the coolest suitable room and away from direct sunlight. Aquarium fans can provide useful evaporative cooling, while a properly sized aquarium chiller gives much more dependable control where room temperatures regularly become too warm.
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Do not rely routinely on frozen water bottles. They can produce repeated temperature swings. If they are ever needed as a short-term emergency measure, use them cautiously while arranging more stable cooling.
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Monitor the water with a reliable digital thermometer.
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Ideal range: 16–18°C (60–64°F)
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Acceptable range: 15–20°C (59–68°F)
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Never exceed 24°C (75°F) Above this, stress and disease risk rise sharply.
Ideal Temperature
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Excellent water quality is non-negotiable. Axolotls are more sensitive than most fish.
Test regularly with a liquid test kit. Chlorine as found in tapwater is harmful to axolotls and a de-chlorinator should be used. Chloramine, if present should also be treated.
GH measures primarily calcium and magnesium in the water and gives an indication of how hard or soft it is. Axolotls should not be kept in extremely soft or distilled water.
KH measures carbonate buffering. Adequate KH helps resist sudden falls in pH and therefore contributes to stable water chemistry.
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c) Water Quality
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7.0-7.8
0
16-18
o
C
<20
Stable
Ammonia & Nitrite
Temp.
Nitrate
lower is better
7-14
GH
dGH
3-8
KH
dKH
Water Changes
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Carry out a partial water change of around 20–30% each week using fully dechlorinated water at a closely matched temperature. Increase the amount or frequency if nitrate or other test results show that it is necessary. Always dechlorinate new water and closely match the temperature. Indian almond leaves can be used as an optional botanical if desired, but they should not be relied on as an antibacterial treatment and do not replace good water quality or appropriate veterinary care.
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Axolotls need only low to moderate lighting and plenty of shaded areas and hides. They are mostly active in low-light conditions and can be stressed by bright or sudden changes in lighting. Strong UVB provision is unnecessary for routine axolotl husbandry and should be avoided. If lighting is used for viewing or plants, provide a consistent day/night cycle and make sure the axolotl can retreat completely from the light.
Lighting
Settling your Axolotl in
This is our recommended approach:
settle a newly arrived axolotl into a simple quarantine tub first, so it can be watched closely before joining the main tank.
1. Prepare a tub
a clean, water-safe container of dechlorinated water, matched to a cool axolotl temperature (16–18°C).
2. Temperature-match
the sealed bag to the tub (float ~15-20 min). If the bag is much warmer, cool it gradually rather than shocking it.
3. Move gently into the tub
using a clean, water-filled container. Avoid ordinary fish nets and unnecessary handling. Nets can snag the external gills or toes and abrade the delicate skin.
Never pour transport water in.
4. Full daily water changes
Continue the daily water-change routine for a quarantine period of at least 30 days. This gives you time to make sure the axolotl is feeding, passing waste and behaving normally, and to watch for signs of illness before it is introduced to another axolotl. Extend the quarantine if there are any health concerns, unexplained changes or veterinary advice to do so. Once the quarantine period is complete, move it into its fully cycled main aquarium.
If it will be joining another axolotl, only introduce it once both animals appear healthy, the newcomer is feeding normally, and they are of a similar size.
Feeding
Axolotls are carnivores and may respond particularly well to moving food, especially when young.
Staple foods: Earthworms or nightcrawlers are an excellent staple. A good-quality complete sinking axolotl or suitable carnivore pellet can also form part of the regular diet.
Other suitable foods: Blackworms, bloodworms and brine shrimp can provide variety, with smaller foods particularly useful for younger animals. Live or fresh aquatic foods should come from a reliable disease-free source.
Feeding frequency: Feed juveniles small meals daily. Adults usually do well with feeding around 2–3 times a week, adjusted for size, appetite and body condition.
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Decorations, Enrichment and Tank Mates
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Provide several smooth hides and areas of cover so the axolotl can retreat from light and activity. Avoid rough or sharp objects that could damage the skin, toes or external gills. A quiet aquarium with gentle flow, shaded resting areas and room to forage provides useful environmental choice without requiring constant disturbance or handling.
Tank mates:
Axolotls are generally safest kept alone. Similar-sized axolotls can sometimes share a sufficiently large aquarium, but cohabitation carries a risk of nipping, competition and accidental injury, so provide plenty of space and separate hides and be prepared to separate them.
Fish, shrimp and snails are not reliable companions. Small animals may be eaten, fish may nip the axolotl's external gills, new animals can introduce disease or parasites, and swallowed snail shells or other hard material may present an impaction risk.
Health Monitoring​​​
An axolotl in good condition will usually feed normally, move comfortably, and have intact skin and gills without obvious new changes.
Watch for changes such as:
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persistent changes in the shape, colour or condition of the gills
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loss of appetite
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uncontrolled floating, swelling or difficulty staying upright
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unusual skin changes, sores or fluffy-looking patches
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marked lethargy or weakness
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difficulty moving normally
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obvious injury
If something seems wrong:
Check the water temperature and test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate straight away. Also check that the filter is working properly and that the water flow is not too strong. Poor water quality and excessive heat are common husbandry problems and should always be ruled out first.
If your axolotl appears ill or injured:
Contact us if you would like help reviewing the aquarium setup, water quality, temperature, filtration or other husbandry. For diagnosis or treatment, seek advice from a veterinary surgeon experienced with amphibians or exotic aquatic animals.
Prevention:
Keep the water cool, clean and stable, avoid ingestible substrate, quarantine new axolotls before introducing them to others, minimise unnecessary handling, and use a clean water-filled container rather than an ordinary fish net if an axolotl needs to be moved.​
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Early action and consistency reward you with a healthy, long-lived axolotl that displays its charming “smile” for years.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
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Adding an axolotl before the aquarium is fully cycled.
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Allowing the water to become too warm or relying on repeated frozen-bottle cooling instead of stable temperature control.
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Using gravel, small pebbles or other objects that may be swallowed.
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Creating excessive water movement with an unsuitable filter outlet.
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Allowing ammonia or nitrite to become detectable or failing to control nitrate through testing and water changes.
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Making unnecessary, sudden adjustments to pH or hardness in an attempt to chase an exact number.
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Overfeeding or leaving uneaten food in the aquarium.
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Providing harsh lighting without adequate shade and hides.
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Keeping unsuitable tank mates with an axolotl.
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Handling the animal unnecessarily or moving it with equipment likely to damage its delicate skin and gills.