
YOUR NEW ARRIVAL IS HERE. YOUR GUIDE TO WHAT TO DO NOW

Arrival and
Your First Week
Your fish has travelled a long way. The first few hours should be calm and unhurried, though the most important preparation was done before delivery: a fully cycled, suitable tank, ready and waiting
No jargon · No guesswork · just friendly advice from people who love fish
How to look after your new arrival
This page covers what to check the moment your box arrives, what to do if something is wrong on arrival, and what to expect during the first week. For the exact settling-in steps for your fish, follow the link to its care guide below

Settling in works differently for different species.
Each care guide carries the full steps.
-
Betta: see the Betta care guide
-
Channa and arowana: see the Channa and Arowana care guide
-
Plecos: see the Pleco care guide
-
Other tropical fish: see the relevant care guide
When your box arrives
Whatever fish you have ordered, the first few minutes are the same. Work somewhere quiet, with the tank ready and the lights low, and take your time.
-
Open the box, not the bag. Unpack carefully and lift the sealed bag out, keeping it dim and upright.
-
Look before you open. Check your fish over through the bag while it is still sealed. This is the moment that matters for the Live Arrival Guarantee.
-
Then follow your fish’s care guide. The right method depends on the species. Use the links above.
For Fish: Never pour the transport water into your aquarium.
What do you see when you check the bag?
Alive and looking good. Temporarily subdued colour or quiet behaviour can occur after transport. Continue with the settling-in procedure in the relevant care guide.
​
Alive, but you are worried. Before opening the bag, take clear photographs or a short video showing the fish and the sealed transport bag, then contact us as soon as possible. Do not delay appropriate transfer if the fish is in obvious distress: welfare comes first, and the photographs take only a moment.
​
Dead on arrival. Do not open the inner bag. Photograph the fish in the sealed, unopened bag, photograph the courier label, and contact us within two hours of delivery. We need those photographs to allow us to honour the Live Arrival Guarantee.
Live Arrival Guarantee - what you need to do
Our Live Arrival Guarantee covers courier-delivered fish, shrimp and axolotls that arrive dead (DOA). If that happens, keep the inner transport bag sealed, photograph the animal in the unopened bag, photograph the courier label, and contact us within two hours of delivery. Delivery must have been accepted on the first attempt.
​
The quickest way to send photographs is WhatsApp on 07521 062789. You can also phone the same number, email broadheath.bettas@outlook.com, or use our website contact form.
If your animal arrived alive but something does not seem right afterwards, that is not a DOA claim, but please contact us promptly. We are still very happy to help.
For what the guarantee covers and what happens if a claim is confirmed, see our Delivery & Live Arrival Guarantee page. You can find the full Live Arrival Guarantee in our Terms & Conditions.
Helping it go smoothly: make sure someone can receive the delivery on the first attempt, give accurate delivery details when ordering, have a suitable fully cycled aquarium ready, move your new arrival into it using the settling-in steps in the relevant care guide. Contact us straight away if anything about the arrival concerns you.
What our advice is based on
There is no single acclimatisation method that suits every fish. The safest approach depends on the species, the length of the journey, the condition of the transport water and the suitability of the receiving aquarium.
During a long sealed journey, carbon dioxide from the fish’s breathing accumulates and lowers the water’s pH, while nitrogenous waste causes total ammonia to accumulate. At the lower pH, a greater proportion of that ammonia remains as less-toxic ammonium. Once the bag is opened, carbon dioxide begins to escape and the pH tends to rise, increasing the proportion present as more-toxic unionised ammonia.
​
Published guidance is not uniform, partly because it addresses different transport situations: advice for a fish taken home promptly from a retailer is not necessarily the same as guidance for fish arriving after prolonged sealed transport.
For most long-distance couriered fish, our usual preference is therefore brief temperature matching while the bag remains sealed, followed by prompt transfer into a fully cycled, species-appropriate aquarium rather than a prolonged drip in opened transport water.
​
The opposite risk is also real: abrupt changes in water chemistry can themselves stress fish. Our advice therefore balances these competing risks rather than assuming that one method is right in every situation.
One important exception: do not follow an acclimatisation timetable mechanically if the fish is in obvious distress or the transport water is visibly in poor condition. Prioritise prompt transfer into clean, suitable water and contact us as soon as possible.
Science behind the advice
Interested in the science?
During a long journey, a fish continues to breathe and produce waste. Because the transport bag is sealed, carbon dioxide from respiration accumulates in the water. Some of this dissolved carbon dioxide reacts with water to form weak carbonic acid, lowering the pH of the transport water. At the same time, nitrogenous waste causes total ammonia to accumulate. Ammonia exists in water in an equilibrium between ionised ammonium, which is much less toxic to fish, and unionised ammonia, which is considerably more toxic. At the lower pH that develops in a sealed transport bag, the balance is strongly shifted towards ammonium. Once the bag is opened, accumulated carbon dioxide begins to escape into the atmosphere. As dissolved carbon dioxide falls, the carbonic-acid equilibrium shifts back and the pH tends to rise. The size and speed of that rise depend partly on the water’s alkalinity, or buffering capacity, and on the rate of gas exchange. As pH rises, the ammonia equilibrium shifts in the opposite direction, increasing the proportion present as toxic unionised ammonia. This creates an acclimatisation dilemma. Gradually adding clean aquarium water dilutes the total ammonia in the transport water, but it may also increase its pH. During a prolonged acclimatisation, a fish can therefore remain exposed to accumulated transport waste while an increasing proportion of that ammonia becomes more toxic. The opposite risk is also real. Fish should not be moved abruptly between substantially different temperatures or water conditions, and sudden changes in water chemistry can themselves cause stress. The safest approach depends on balancing these two risks rather than applying one method mechanically to every fish. Published guidance illustrates this trade-off. OATA’s betta care guidance is framed around a fish being taken home promptly from a retailer and recommends a short floating-bag acclimatisation, including the gradual addition of aquarium water. By contrast, specialist ornamental-fish shipping guidance published by Cole and colleagues describes fish typically arriving after 24 to 48 hours in sealed bags. It recommends matching temperature while the bag remains sealed and then transferring the fish directly into the receiving water. The same guidance warns that opening the bag allows accumulated carbon dioxide to escape, causing pH to rise and potentially increasing the toxic fraction of ammonia while the fish remains in the transport water. These recommendations were developed in different settings, and neither proves that one method is universally correct. They do, however, demonstrate why journey length and transport-water condition matter when deciding which risk deserves greatest weight. For most fish arriving after a long courier journey, where the receiving aquarium is fully cycled and its temperature and water parameters are appropriate for the species, we favour temperature matching while the transport bag remains sealed, followed by prompt transfer into clean aquarium water. This minimises unnecessary time in opened, ageing transport water. It is also worth remembering that the pH measured in an arrival bag may be lower than the water in which the fish was normally kept, because of carbon dioxide accumulated during transport. Arrival-bag pH therefore does not necessarily represent the fish’s normal pre-transport water conditions. The underlying transport chemistry is well established, and published studies document deterioration of transport water with increasing journey time, including in Betta splendens. Specialist ornamental-fish guidance has also recognised prompt transfer after prolonged shipment, while conventional guidance continues to recommend gradual acclimatisation in other circumstances. What remains limited is direct controlled research comparing those receiving methods after next-day courier transport in species such as bettas and channa. Our recommendations therefore combine established chemistry, relevant transport research, published husbandry guidance and practical experience rather than claiming that one method is universally correct.
What about shrimp and crayfish?
Ornamental dwarf shrimp can be particularly sensitive to abrupt changes in temperature and water chemistry, including hardness and dissolved mineral content. For shrimp, we therefore recommend gradual acclimatisation in a separate container, provided the transport water is in reasonable condition. Dwarf crayfish are also acclimatised gradually, although the appropriate method and pace can vary. Follow the specific guidance in the relevant care guide. Direct controlled research comparing acclimatisation methods after courier transport in ornamental shrimp and crayfish appears to be limited. Our recommendations therefore draw on established physiology and practical husbandry experience rather than claiming that one timetable has been proved to be universally best.

References
Sources and further reading:
•OATA, Siamese Fighting Fish (Bettas). Trade-body husbandry guidance, which recommends floating the sealed bag and then gradually mixing in aquarium water. This is well suited to a fish taken home from a shop; our advice above addresses fish arriving after an overnight courier journey, where the transport water has aged considerably. •Cole B, Tamaru CS, Bailey R, Brown C and Ako H (1999), Shipping Practices in the Ornamental Fish Industry. Specialist ornamental-fish shipping and receiving guidance, including management of pH and ammonia changes after prolonged transport. •UF/IFAS FA119, On-Farm Transport of Ornamental Fish. Guidance on transport-water chemistry, pH, ammonia toxicity and acclimation. •Sampaio and Freire (2016), An overview of stress physiology of fish transport. Review of transport-water deterioration and its physiological consequences for fish, as a function of transport duration. •Sintuprom et al. (2024), Effects of clove oil concentrations on blood chemistry and stress-related gene expression in Siamese fighting fish during transportation. Betta-specific experimental transport study which also documented changes in transport-water quality during 12 to 48 hours of simulated transport.
Your first week
New fish settle at their own pace. The first week is mostly about leaving them alone and keeping the water right.
Expect quiet behaviour at first. Hiding, subdued colour, resting or reduced interest in food can occur after a journey, depending on the species. How quickly normal activity returns varies by species and individual.
Keep the lights low for the first day or so, and keep the room quiet. Resist the urge to check on them constantly, as repeated disturbance slows settling.
Feed lightly. Once the fish is behaving normally for its species and has begun to settle, offer a small amount of appropriate food as described in its care guide. Remove uneaten food promptly, as this can quickly affect water quality.
Test the water daily for the first week. Ammonia and nitrite should both read zero. A newly stocked tank can shift, and testing tells you far more than watching does. If either reading is above zero, carry out a partial water change with dechlorinated, temperature-matched water and test again.
Keep changes to a minimum. Avoid adding further livestock during the first week. Avoid adding aquarium salt, medications or other remedies “just in case”. Keep the water clean and stable, and seek appropriate specialist advice if you are concerned about illness or injury. Follow the relevant care guide if your species has particular requirements.
If something doesn't seem right
If a fish does not seem to be settling as you would expect, get in touch.
There is usually something practical we can help you check.
What we can help with is husbandry: water quality, temperature, filtration, aquarium setup and settling-in.
Start with your water.
Test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and temperature, and have the readings to hand. Water quality is one of the first things worth ruling out when a newly introduced fish is not behaving as expected.
What we cannot do is act as a vet.
We are a fish supplier, not a veterinary practice, so we do not diagnose illness or injury or advise on treatment. If you are concerned that a fish may be ill or injured, please seek advice from a veterinary surgeon with appropriate aquatic experience.
Telling us is still worthwhile.
If something seems wrong we would like to know. It helps us check whether anything in the setup or settling-in might need attention.
Getting hold of us quickly
-
If something is wrong on arrival, speed matters more than politeness. Message us straight away rather than waiting for a convenient moment.
-
WhatsApp is the quickest way to reach Kieran, including for a Live Arrival Guarantee claim, as you can send photographs straight from your phone.
-
WhatsApp or telephone: 07521 062789
-
Or message us through the website contact form.
Fishkeeping is part science, part craft. If you would like help checking your water, your aquarium setup or your settling-in procedure, Kieran is always happy to help.

